It was his love of fine wines that inspired Chef Nobuo Fukuda to create the "Tapanese" cuisine he serves at Sea Saw in Scottsdale, Arizona's hip downtown arts area. This James Beard Award–winning chef pairs his sophisticated sushi- and sashimi-style dishes with wines rather than the traditional sake or beer, as diners in this openkitchen, 26-seat restaurant watch what Gourmet magazine has called "a genius at work."

Fukuda left Japan in 1980 to work as a sushi chef at Scottsdale's original Benihana restaurant. He said he found it frustrating when some customers would ask why they couldn't get wine rather than sake or beer. The traditional pairing of fish with sake "is all about the mouth-feel," says Fukuda. "Sake cleans up your palette instantly, so it goes well with soy, rice wine vinegar, and fishy flavors. Wine stays in the palette for a long time, so for 40 to 50 seconds it can feel unpleasant." One night Fukuda took home some leftover fish and had a revelation: "I was eating sea urchin with wine [Pinot Noir], and the feeling in the mouth was amazing." Fukuda began reinventing traditional sushi dishes, replacing soy with citrus and oil in some instances, until, little by little, he came up with selections he now pairs with wines from a 3,500-bottle list.

Using wild seafood and local produce, Fukuda changes the menu frequently–sometimes daily–using what's available and fresh. For his eight-course omakase (chef's choice) tasting menu ($125 with wines, $95 without), selections might include sashimi with an NV Foss Marai Prosecco from Veneto, Soft-Shell Shrimp with Green Papaya Slaw paired with Finca La Anita Tocai Triulano from Argentina, and Tuna Tataki with Roasted Beet Puree (recipe featured at right) paired with a 2003 Pierre Andre Pinot Noir from Bourgogne. Fukuda also complements traditional Japanese seafood with other ethnic ingredients, such as cured salmon with Pecorino Romano or roasted almonds, sliced yellowtail with Ruby Red grapefruit, and bluefin toro with a Maui onion sauce.